You can go to EaT: an Oyster Bar (N Williams at Failing Street, Portland) to hear me on Saturday nights. And of course for the oysters, absinthe, shrimp etouffee etc. But here’s another excellent reason to visit that fine restaurant: greens.
I love many things on the menu, but I want to make special note of the greens, which seem to have been ignored in all the press this place has garnered. (Probably that is because Northwest food critics don’t know much about greens.) If you like greens, or want to try them, this is the place. Several places in town just saute them with various meats and seasonings added. Well, greens are not spinach. They have to be slow- and long-cooked in plenty of liquid, or else they are tough. EaT chef Ethan does them right. The only problem is EaT does not serve cornbread, with which one typically soaks up the delicious broth, or “potlikker.” So make sure to ask for a spoon, and don’t let a drop of it go to waste!
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